Current Progress


3800 Installation This is rather easy compared to the other tasks of this build. the standard transmission mounts directly to the 3800 with no modifications.



	The original oil filter adapter would not allow the mounting to the K frame. This oil filter adapter is from a 1988 Skylark. Note the New from t mounting Bracket from West Coast Fieros

	I remounted the original Fiero Dog Bone to the center. This is much better than some of the hack jobs I have seen for this. It is made out of 1/4' steel and attaches to the Alternator mounting rail.

Here is a view of my virgin engine compartment. I have begun to mount and route the cooling lines. UPDATED BELOW	Here is the new battery mounting box. Painted black the end product looks stock.

I had to modify the Air tube from the 3800. Where you see the Silver disk there was a turbulence box. Most of the other vehicles with 3800's do not have this useless protrusion. I would have left it alone except that it was interfering with my coolant lines.	Look closely the hole was the same size as a standard spray paint can. I cut an old on off at the end and used a rubber mallet to drive it in. The fit was perfect!

I cut Access panels on each of the air boxes.	The cooling lines run straight out and to the engine.


Here is how my last month went. I finally got all of the cooling line run and all of the electrical checked. I went to start it and NOTHING. The engine would crank but I did not here the fuel pump. Ok easy fix I thought. Turns out the fuel pump relay was corroded. I was almost certain West Coast Fieros sent me back BAD relays because I know the Fiero started before my conversion.... thus the relays were good. So I replaced the relay and the fuel pump came on..... But still no fire. I checked the spark and they all seemed fine. To make the long story shot I found out the injectors were not firing. I suspected a bad computer because there was a burn mark on one of the connector pins. I thought that I could have fired it by welding on the car while plugged in. So I bought a NEW PCM from GM and had to tow my project in for them to program. WHAT A PAIN. After the programming, the car fired and ran for a few seconds and died. The guys at GM said it was because the computer wasn't getting the correct signal from the VATS system. Now I thought It was something else so I towed my car home and began diagnosis. West Coast Fieros wired in a PWM that would send 50Hz to the PCM to bypass the security. Chris said to have it tested in an oscilloscope for frequency. I did so and the electrician said there were no clear frequency settings. I called Chris back He said he would test and send me a new on OVER Night FedEx. Day two no package from Chris... This company is really starting to bug me so I just ordered a NEW VATS system from GM since I have the original lock and key from the Riviera I figured I could just re-hook up the VATS and it would "Fix" any problems related to the security. Day 3 No package from West Coast VATS is in. Spent the whole night wiring the VATS in. VATS now working but still no injector activity. ARGHH... I was for certain the VATS system was working fine the diagnostic light code were indicating correct function. I disconnected my computer and began to test EACH AND EVERY wire from the computer to the connector plug on the engine 4 hours later I found a wire (My last 20 out of over 100+) and ignition wire was not connected in the wiring harness! It was just laying there. I connected the wire and finished testing the other connectors to be on the safe side. The Engine STARTED! A new computer and VATS system later, I found the problem. For those of you who are scared to hook up your wiring harnesses to the Fiero just DO IT, it is NOT that hard do not rely on someone else. It took over 7 months to get mine back and it was not even double checked. I should send them a bill for my time. Currently the engine run strong. I am having some cooling problems and the engine cuts off at 210 degrees. I had Deurll 10" 560CFM cooling fans. I am replacing them with FlexLite 12" 1600+CFM fans. I hope this will correct the problem. The engine idles and stays below 180 but revving it causes the temp to exceed 210 . There must be an internal switch that kills the engine above a certain temperature. The engine runs fine as long as it is below 200 degrees. Any suggestions here would be great.


10" Fan installed Will be upgrading to 12" HiPo