Again there are MANY different options you can do with the Fiero front end.  I am building on a budget, but I do want performance.  I decided to buy All new front end components including new original rotors.  I had the rotors dimpled to increase cooling and performance.  Dimpling is similar to cross drilling except that the holes are not drilled all the way through.  GM did research on this some time ago and found that cross drilling weakened the rotor causing warpage and caused excessive break dust and road grime build up between the holes.  Dimpling was found to perform as well as cross drilling and did not weaken the rotor and because the dimples were not holes there was significant reduction in foreign materials accumulating between the holes.  Enough said you can do what you want. The rear side I did the same.  As of this writing I have installed Earl's Stainless steel lines since they are only about $100 and well worth it.  I can only suggest this however.  The Banjo bolt that connects the brake lines to the caliper needs to be Torque no more than 24 Ft Lbs.  The Helms manual for the Fiero suggest 31 Ft Lbs however if you try and torque Earls lines with aluminum crush washers I guarantee you will have to replace them.  On my first attempt I completely pulverized the washer and splitting it.  I called Earl's up directly and asked them.  The said no MORE than 25 Lbs and it is recommended 20 to 25 lbs  I hope this helps.  Also if you order a set from any one, we used www.fierostore.com I would highly recommend purchasing the Earl Bleeder valves, unless you have another person to pump and hold the brakes while  you bleed you will not do the job right.  Also after we received our kit from one of the Fittings that connects the Old Steel lines to the New Stainless lines was SAE thread and not Metric like the rest of them. Needless to say we had to replace the Steel brake line from the car because we damaged the threads trying to get it attached.  The FieroStore overnighted a new on the next day.  Rule of thumb if it does not screw easing into place then try rocking the tube back and forth to help seat the steel line inside the fittings.  If it still does not screw in then check the the thread size.  Another thing is that the D&R kit requires a different Brake Fluid reservoir using the Chevy Van that has one large reservoir and one smaller on to the front of the Master Brake Cylinder. BOTH OF THESE NEED TO BE TOPPED OFF BEFORE BLEEDING.  The front reservoir feeds the front brakes while the larger one feeds the rear.  I assumed it was an overfill reservoir and left it dry...  You bet an hour later after pumping - Bleeding - releasing - waiting for 15 seconds and repeating I discovered the problem..  I know that there could not be THAT much air in the system.  I filled it back up (Front one) and in about 4 pumps it was ready to go.  You may even consider replacing the Bleeder valve too.  Like I mentioned above the Earls version is well worth it.. I wish I had it when I did it.