The Stretch
This is by far, the most difficult part of the framing and steel
section. Not as much as welding, but being precise with your steel.
You will have to section the rear of the car into two pieces and
re-assemble them perfectly. |
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This is D & R's design for the stretch.
It's very clean, and you don't have to cut the K Frame. |
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Note how clean my K Frame looks, thanks to
the wife :) |
You can see diagonal supports connecting
the new steel on top. |
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This is the inside view of the new bracket
to hold the K Frame. It is made out of 1/4" steel, and also connects to
the original K Frame mounting bracket for extra support. |
This is the inside view where you can see
the new K Frame bracket and added diagonal supports. |
Notes : You cut the upper and lower frame
rails from the original car approximately 5 inches from the firewall.
It doesn't matter how far from the firewall, give or take an inch or two
as long as your cuts are consistent. The D&R kit, which is based from
an original Diablo, requires a stretch of 10 3/4". I would recommend
using a piece of steel 12" to 13" long and sliding the ends into the
existing frame rails. Measuring prior to welding is crucial! Measure
diagonally in several locations, ensuring your rear end is true. Also,
measure from the ground to the top or the bottom of the frame rail and
use a level to make sure the two sections are perfectly parallel. Let
me tell you, if you mess this up, then you might as well start over.
THIS IS VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT. After tack welding your rear end back
on, test fit your K Frame, if the original bolt locations and the new
mounting locations don't match up, then you need to fix it (In other
words start over). |